All conditioning treatments are formulated to affect the hair in specific ways. To receive the optimum benefits, you must match them correctly, based on your hair needs at any given time.
Hair conditioners fall into several categories, the important thing to remember, is that no matter how effective a treatment may be in one case, it may not work the same in another. Therefore, each case must be properly analyzed to determine an effective course of action, such as:
1. What is the Hair texture: is it soft, fine, coarse, or a combination?
2. What is the overall state of the hair: is it dry, brittle, over-processed, or does it lack the ability to hold a firm hairstyle?
3. Is the hair in a virgin state, chemically straightened, colored, or combined?
All of these factors must be considered when determining a replenishing regimen.
Moisturizers
Moisturizers are also called humectants, they prevent the hair from becoming dry and brittle. In servicing the ethnic client moisturizers are generally the “go-to” treatment because ethnic hair tends to dry out very easily when not properly cared for. In addition, its spiral geometric structure causes it to break easily when the moisture content is lost. A quality moisturizer will help soften, strengthen, and smooth the hair.
Reconstructors
Reconstructors are designed to repair the hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds, damaged by chemical processing and heat. They also help repair the damage caused by flat and curling irons.
Acidifiers
Acidifiers are designed to close the cuticle layer of the hair. The cuticle is the last layer of the hair strand, it overlaps like fish scales. When hair is chemically processed, the cuticle opens and stands out or up. This causes the internal structure of the hair to become exposed and unprotected. A raised cuticle causes the hair to feel dry and look dull. When an acidifier conditioner is properly applied, the cuticle closes and the hair becomes shinier and more vibrant. Vinegar and lemon water rinses are natural acidifiers that may be used after the final shampoo to help close the cuticle and remove soap curds trapped in the hair.
Detanglers
Detanglers are generally considered to be deep conditioners. However, they do not deep condition the hair. For this reason, they should only be used in extreme cases such as softening matted hair, because they tend to leave a residue on the hair shaft leaving it listless.
Liquid Proteins
Liquid proteins are designed to strengthen weak hair. Proteins should never be used on dry or brittle hair because they may cause breakage. African American hair generally requires moisturizing treatments because of its susceptibility to dryness.
When liquid proteins are applied to dry damaged hair, it will become more brittle. Liquid proteins can be used on fine or limp hair that has not been depleted of moisture. Add a small amount of protein to a moisturizing conditioner, for better absorption.
If your hair is chemically processed, you more than likely require deep moisturizing, acidifying, and reconstructive treatments, as part of your regular conditioning regimen. If your hair is dry and brittle, liquid protein conditioners should not be applied.
Protein conditioners are designed to strengthen the hair but if your hair lacks moisture, the protein will harden the hair and cause breakage. Therefore, a moisturizing or humectant conditioner would be a better choice.
Hair Oils (Essential Fatty Acids)
Essential Fatty Acids (EFA), are oils rich in nutrients and natural emollients that keep hair soft and pliable. Keep in mind that all hair types require EFA’s. All chemical processing services strip the hair and scalp of Essential Fatty Acids and if not replaced causes dryness, dullness, and frizzing. Petroleum and mineral oil-based products will not restore Essential Fatty Acids. They tend to clog the pores and weigh the hair down with a waxy residue.
Conditioning Processing Chart
Good porosity & elasticity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 15 minutes / warm dryer
Poor porosity & elasticity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 30 minutes / warm dryer
Add 10 additional minutes to processing time without a hairdryer.
In Conclusion
A replenishing program should be unique to each case, a treatment may work wonders at one time but have the complete opposite another time. One product will work well alone for one person, but for another person, it requires some additional products. Simply put, treatments must be adjusted based on the condition of the hair.
How To Properly Apply Conditioning Treatments
1. Thoroughly shampoo hair.
2. After the last rinse, do not dry or towel blot. Gently, squeeze out the excess water with your hands. If the hair is too dry or wet, it will not penetrate the hair.
3. Apply conditioner and gently massage into hair from scalp to ends. Keep in mind that every strand that does not have conditioner on it will not be conditioned.
4. Cover the hair with a plastic cap.
5. Process under a warm dryer for the time you have determined is necessary.
6. Rinse the hair with lukewarm water for 1 minute or until the conditioner is completely removed.
7. Rinse hair with cool to cold water for 1 minute.
8. Style as usual.
